Shoe



J. J. HEYS.

APPLICATION Fl UG27, 1917. v

Patented Nov., 211, 1922.

vlliatenteril Nov. 21, 1922.,

UNTTsn sTaTss attenta PATENT orgues.'

JOHN J. HEYS, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSXGNMENTS, TO

UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATON, 0F PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A COR-PORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE.

Application led August 27, 1917. Serial No. 188,320.

To all whom #may concern.'

Be it known that I, JOHN J. HEYs, a citizen of the United States,residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts,have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the followingdescription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is aspecification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating likeparts in the several figures.

In the development of shoe manufacture, it has been demonstrated to bepracticable to make, of the usual heel materials, a completedwax-polished heel as a separate article of manufacture ready forattachment to a shoe and requiring no finishing after attachment. Aserious difiiculty is, however, encountered in making practical use ofsuch a finished heel. It is found that when such a heel is attached to ashoe there will so often be a variation or deviation of the lines ordimensions of the heel and the immediately adjacent parts of the solethat either the heel or the sole must be trimmed down to fitV the otherpart. ln effect-ing the required cutting and fitting the finishedsurface of the heels is damaged and requires re-finishing to a degreethat renders the practice of using prefinished heels unprofitable. Thedifficulty has been reduced by inventions, exemplified in United-StatesLetters Patent No. 1,396,801, granted November 15, 1921, on applicationof Winkley, owned by the assignee of this invention, in which the soleterminates under the breast portion of the heel and the heel extendsupward to the rand crease so that the only exposed joint to make betweenthe heel and' sole is at the breast of the heel. t is not practical,however, as a manufacturing proposition either to edge finish the soleso that itwill be the exact width of the heel to be applied and requireno refinishing, or to edge finish the sole to fit the attached heelwithout damaging the surface of the heel. This difficulty has barred theadoption of pre-finished heels and it is the object of this invention toeliminate this difficulty and render available the economies obtainableby finishing heels off the shoe. rlhis lf accomplish by `building andfinishing the heel slightly wider than the shank of the sole, finishingthe sole edge, and then applying the heel to present at each side. ofthe shank a breast edge extension outwardly beyond the sole edge. Thevwidth of this extension may be normally very slight, as for example gliof an inch, but enough to make always some extension the slightvariations in which, produced by lnaccuraciesy in workmanship, will beunobservable. lt is a well-known fact that if a shoulder or extension isintended and always present a little more or less width thereof will benegligible, whereas the same variation from an intended alinement is anobvious defect. The invention will now be more fully explained with theaid of the accompanying drawings and then particularly' pointed out inthe claims.

Fig. 1 of the drawings shows a shoe prepared to receive a heel inaccordance with this invention.

Fig'. 2 shows an edge finished heel prepared for application to a shoein accordance with this invention.

Figs. 3 and 4 l"are, respectively, plan and perspective views of a shoebottom made in accordance with this invention and requiring no edgefinishing of the sole or heel after the heel has been applied.

In practising this invention, a shoe is lasted and the sole 2 attachedin accordance with any yusual or suitable custom and the type ofconnection between the sole and upper may vary according t-o the type ofshoe being made. A welt shoe is assumed to be shown in the drawings.rlfhe sole illustrat-` ed covers the forepart and the shank of the shoeand from the shank extends a taper tongue 3 to form a joint with theheel. The sole may or may not be cut in or shouldered at the heel breastline as indicated at 4 on one or both sides of the' shank. The sole, andthe`welt edge in a welt shoe, is preferably completely finished,including bottom finishing, whatever edge trimming is necessary,staining and edge setting before the heel is attached.

The heel 5 is built to include a seat. end lift having an exposed faceformed by pressure or otherwise to fit the heel seat face of the lastedshoe and recessed to receive the tongue 3'of the sole. lt., should bestated that the particular form of joint illustrated between the soleand heel `is not material and may be varied. rlfhe heel is formed widerthanthe sole, e. g., 117; of an inch wider, at `the vbreast end in theplane of the sole recess so that when attached to the shoe it Willpresent a breast edge extension at 6 projecting outwardly from the shankof the sole. Before its application to the shoe the heel is preferablycompletely finished, including trimming, staining, and edge polishing,asis customary in the present commercial practice of Wax finishing heelson the shoes. In this condition, and fitted as described, the heel isassembled with the sole on the shoe as indicated in Figs. 3 and 4 topresent at the side of the shank a projection, constituting a definitebreak in the edge line of the shoe at the heel breast line. AIt isimpractical under commercial shoe manufacturing conditions to produceexactness in the width of both the shanks of the soles and the' breastfaces of the heels, and the variation from exactness would beconspicuous as a defect ifa continuous or unbroken edge line wereattempted, resulting in necessity for trimming and repairing the finishof the sole edge or heel edge or both. By providing for a definite breakin the edge line, as described, the slight variationsof a small fractionof an inch more or less in the Width of the extension 6 is unobservableand therefore unobjectionable. This invention is broad enough to cover amethod of making shoes in which an extension of the heel breast at oneside only of the shank is presented and the shoe is provided with acontinuous edge line at its other side, as some styles now call for.This practice of my method may be carried out by making the tonguerecess in the heel slightly Wider than the tongue on the sole andcarefully positioning the heel laterally on the sole to bring the soleand heel edges into alinement, as for example at the outer side of theshoe, and maintaining such alinementwhile the heel is permanentlyattached. Or one .side ofv the sole or heel can be trimmed Whennecessary to obtain a continuous edge line on that side of the shoe, thefitting-of he other side of the shoe being saved by the use of thisinvention. y

The heel may be attached by any suitable means, attachment from theinside of the heel by means of screws 8 being illustrated, as the bestresults in. preservlng the wax finish of pre-finished heels have beenobtained by inside.. fastenings which are applied Without shock orcrushing pressure. The pre-finishing of heels, made commerciallypracticable by this invention, enables a substantial economy to beeffected in tworespects. The finished -heels can be produced as completearticles of manufacture in factories or departments. particularly fittedup with apparatus for this purpose .chea er than they can be shaped `andfinishe on the shoe. Furthermore, by performing the heel fimshingoperations before the heel is attached, the actual shoe manufacturingprocess is shortened by as much as the time heretofore required tofinish the heel on the shoe. This has the advantage of sooner releasingthe last, which is an expensive part of shoe factory equipment, so thatit may be used over again in making another shoe.

Having fully explained my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States l. That im rovement in themanufacture of shoes Whici consists in building and finishing heelsslightly Wider than the shank of the soles with which the heels are tobe used, finishing the soles of the shoes, and then applying each heelto present at each side of the shank a breast edge extension outwardlybeyond the sole edge.

2. That improvement in the manufacture of shoes Which consists in edge-finishing the sole of a shoe in the shank to an approximately definitewidth, separately edge finishing a heel to have an approximatelydefinite width at the breast which is slightly greater than the Width ofthe sole, and attaching the heel in position to present a slightextension Alaterally from the sole edge at the breast.

l3. That improvement in the manufacture of shoes which consists in edgefinishing the sole of a shoe in the shank to an approximately definiteWidth, forming a taper tongue on the sole from the shank back- Wardly,making a heel with a seat face adapted to fit the heel end of the lastedshoe and provided with a recess shaped to receive the tongue on thesole` edge finishing the heel to have an approximatel definite width atthe breast which is slight yl greater than the Width of the sole, andattaching the heel in position to present a slight extension laterallyfrom the sole edge at the breast.

4. That improvement inthe manufacture of shoes which consists inedge-finishing the sole of a shoe in the shank to an approxi- .matelydefinite Width, shouldering the sole at the breast line, forming a tapertongue on .the sole from the shoulder backwardly, making a heel to havean approximately definite width at the breast which is slightly greaterthan the Width of the sole, and applying the heel to the taper tonguewith its breast edge against said shoulder and in position to present aslight extension laterally from the sole edge in line with the-shoulderon the sole.

5. That improvement in the manufacture of shoes which consists in edgefinishing the sole of a shoe inthe shank to an approximately definitewidth, shouldering the sole at each side of the shank at the breastline,` forming a taper tongue on the sole from the shoulders backwardly,,making a heel to have an approximately vdefinite Width at the breastywhich is slightly greater than the maepea of shoes which consists inbuilding and Vfin-.

ishing heels slightly wider than the shank of the soles with which theheels are to be used, finishing the soles of the shoes, and thenapplying each heel to its shoe to present always. an extension of theheel outwardly beyond the sole edge at one side of the shoe,

the amount of such extension varying more or less with inaccuracies 1nthe measure-y ments of the sole and heel.

7. That improvement in the manufacture of shoes which consists inbuilding and finishing heels slightly Wider than the shank of the soleswith which the heels are to be used, forming tapered recesses in theseat faces of the heels, formingY tapered tongues on the soles slightlynarrower than the recesses in the heels, edge finishing the soles of theshoes, then applying and adjusting each heel with relation to the tongueofthe sole to present on the inner side of the shoe an eX- tension ofthe heel breast face across and outwardly beyond the edgeA face of thesole more or less to include the inaccuracies in width of the heel andsole, and attaching the heel in adjusted position on .the shoe.

8. That improvement in the manufact-ure of shoes which consists inbuilding and finishing a shoe heel to present a seat face adapted to fitthe heel seat of a lasted shoe and a tongue extension from the shank ofthe shoe sole and to present a lateral breast extension from the shankedge of the so e. y

'9. /That improvement in the manufacture ofshoes which consists inbuilding and finishing a shoe heel to present a seat face adapted to fitthe heel seat of a lasted shoe and a taper tongue extension from theshank of the shoe sole and to present a lateral breast extension fromthe shank edge of the sole; shaping a sole to provide a shank narrowerthan said heel at the breast and having a taper tongue to be connectedwith the heel and a shoulder Wall at the outer edge of said tongue toabut against the breast ea'- tension of the heel, and assembling saidheel with a shoe having the described sole.

10. A shoe bottom comprising an edge finished sole and an edge finishedheel, said sole having at the rear end of itsshank portion a rearwardlytapering tongue inset to produce a short end face at each edge, and saidheel being wider at its breast than the shank of the sole and having arecess at the breast end of its seat surface shaped to receive saidtongue.

1l. A shoe bottom comprising an edge finished sole and an edge finishedheel, said sole having at the rear end of its shank portion a rearwardlytapering tongue inset to pr0- duce 'a short end faceat each edge, andsaid heel being wider at its breast than the shank of the sole andhaving a recess at the breast end of its seat surface shaped to receivesaid tongue abutting against and extending laterally beyond said endfaces of the sole.

12. A shoe bottom comprising an edge iinished sole and an edge finishedheel, said sole having at the rear end of its shank portion end facesextending inwardly from each edge and a tongue tapering rearwardly fromthe said end faces to fit a recess formed for its reception at thebreast end of the seat surface of the heel, said heel having a breastedge abutting and extending laterally beyond said edge faces of the soleto present a shoulder where the heel edge line' meets the sole edgeline.

lin testimony whereof ll have signed my name to this specication.

JHN J. HIEYSc

